Earring Style Guidebook: Your Ultimate reference to Earrings
A Brief History of Earrings
Earrings have been worn for thousands of years. Most sources indicate that they originated in ancient Asia – and depending on the area, earrings signified different statuses, occupations, and affiliations at different moments in history.
Earrings and Ancient Civilizations
The first pierced earrings seem to originate in the Middle East, around the year 3,000 B.C. Their role was to mainly signify the wearer’s political and religious beliefs. In places like Egypt, earrings were worn by the elite classes as a status symbol, in order to indicate their position in society. On the polar opposite, in places like ancient Rome and Greece, earrings were worn by slaves or prostitutes. However, the wealthier class in Rome or Greece also wore earrings with pearls and other valuable gemstones in order to signify their upper social status.
During the Bronze Age in Greece, hoop earrings gained a lot of popularity, mainly the styles featuring pendants. And during the Persian Empire, men soldiers used to wear a single earring – as depicted on carved walls found on archeological sites. Persians regarded jewelry pieces as talismans that could offer protection in battle.
A variety of colored gemstones were introduced as a way to ornate earpieces in the second century A.D.
Earrings, Popularity and Symbolism
During the 13th century, the Catholic church banned piercings as they were seen as an alteration of one’s sacred body. At the same time, earrings began to be fully embraced by pirates and thieves and commonly worn by men dedicated to a life of crime.
During the Middle Ages in Europe, the fashion and hairstyles of the time pushed earrings into obscurity – literally so, as earpieces were not visible due to high collars, voluminous locks, and hats. The same phenomenon occurred during the 1800s as well, when the ultra-fashionable bonnets worn by high-society ladies made earrings invisible or seldomly used.
Earpieces gained more popularity during the early 1900s when the fashionable hairdos of the era (mostly updos such as chignon) allowed for earrings to be seen and admired. Their popularity was strengthened by the introduction of clip-on earrings, which were considered more sanitary and less rebellious than pierced types, which were even regarded as vulgar during the Victorian Era.
In the United States, pierced earrings gained high regard only during the 1950s – and their popularity among both women and men flourished in the upcoming decades. Prior to the ‘50s, piercings were considered uncivilized, but clip-on varieties were embraced.
24 Types of Earrings
Stud Earrings: Stud earrings are placed directly on the earlobe. Without a doubt, studs are the most popular style of earrings – and many will argue that they are the most evergreen design as well.
With their minimalistic construction, stud earrings can take many shapes, the most popular being the round stud earring. They usually feature a single gem in a variety of cuts (e.g. diamonds, pearls, or other gemstones) and occasionally present a gem cluster design. Diamonds adorning studs are usually cut round, but styles like the square, heart, and pear cut are also popular.
Studs are extremely versatile and can be worn with a variety of jewelry pieces and necklace lengths and on a variety of occasions ranging from casual to formal.
Hoop Earrings: Hoop earrings are pieces with a circular design. Generally crafted from metals, hoops feature a wire closure that passes through an ear piercing. The classic hoop is round, but modern styles also include oval hoop earrings, square or diamond shapes.
Hoop earrings come in many styles, including super slim or thick, tube-like, or adorned with sparkly gemstones. All these come in different sizes, from dainty to extra-large hoops that hang all the way to the shoulders.
Hoops were first worn in Africa, more precisely in Nubia during the 4th century. They were also popular in ancient Egypt, where both men and women sported hoop earrings.
Wire Hook Earrings: Wire hook earrings have various names. Some call them ‘fish hooks’, although various types of earrings feature longer wire hook closures and similar variations. Other names include ‘French hooks’ or ‘shepherd hooks’. In general, this particular style features wire that curves around and hooks in the ear lobe.
The main difference between wire hooks and other types of earring closures is the fact that this type does not feature any earring back.
This style of earring connects the fish hook with a decorative piece that can vary in size, from dainty to extra-large. Based on their design, wire hook earrings can be of many types: drop, dangle, chandelier, and more. Due to their easy-to-wear system, wire hooks are versatile and perfect as on-the-go accessories.
Teardrop Earrings: Teardrop earrings are fixed on the lobe, generally with a push-back or wire hook closure. Their design is tear or pear-shaped. They are usually of medium size and they are part of the dangling earring family, although fixed styles are also available.
In jewelry design, teardrop has a special significance. The shape is usually associated with the idea of tears of joy and romanticism, which is why many engagement rings feature this cut. Similar to stud earrings, teardrop designs have a timeless, elegant appeal that is highly versatile and suitable for a wide range of occasions.
Dangle Earrings: Dangle earrings are just as their name describes them: dangly. Never stationery (unlike their cousins, the drop earrings), dangle earring types are characterized by their continuous movement. Most pieces are on the longer side, but some daintier pieces with slim chains also qualify for this category.
Dangle earrings hang below the earlobe and can feature a variety of designs, from simple chains to tassels and from white dangle earrings suitable for brides to ornate gem-adorned styles. Extra-long designs can touch the shoulder and even the collarbone and they are often called ‘shoulder dusters’.
Drop Earrings: Drop earrings define the types of earrings that feature a longer and slimmer silhouette, usually with a gem at the bottom (hence the name ‘drop’). There are many styles available on the market, but the idea behind all is an earring design that hangs vertically below the ear.
Most styles of drop earrings feature a single stone, be it a pearl, diamond, or colored gemstone. They are usually simple, minimalistic, and not ornate, yet stand out with their elegant length. Some styles are dangly and mobile, while others are more sturdy and fixed.
C Hoop Earrings: C hoop earrings are hoops with a missing section. Resembling the letter C, these types of hoops have all the characteristics of a hoop, minus their closure type. Hoops usually come with wire closures, while C hoops usually feature push backs.
C hoop earrings come in a wide assortment of designs and can range considerably in size. Some of the most popular styles include slim metallic creations, thicker tube-like styles, designs enhanced with gemstones or pieces that emulate the look of a chain.
Tassel Earrings: Tassel earring types feature actual fabric/string tassels or define the types of earrings that resemble a tassel by design. When crafted out of metal, tassel earrings usually include a multitude of slim chains that start from the same point, resembling an actual metallic tassel. Other styles include a multitude of earring findings adorned by tiny beads, mother of pearl charms or other ornaments.
Dangly, bouncy, and playful, tassel earrings are statement pieces. The most common types feature embroidery floss, but some are made out of lace or other textile materials.
Jacket Earrings: Jacket earrings are a modern and innovative creation that usually features a latch or a gem in the front, while the larger part of the earring is found behind and under the ear.
Most designs feature a simple stud in the front (such as a zirconia or pearl stud), although more elaborate creations exist as well. The part that peeks from behind is more intricate, including floral designs, stars, or leaf motifs. Some might call them elevated studs, as they are a more complex version of a stud that is unique in design and that brings extra sparkle and visual interest.
Cluster Earrings: Cluster earrings are pieces that display multiple gemstones that are grouped together. They can be studs (such as flower studs, where each petal features a different diamond or gem) or they can be dangly. The dangle cluster styles incorporate both multiple chains and multiple gemstones, such as pearls (pictured below).
Cluster studs are a contemporary alternative to simple studs, adding extra dazzle to any look. Cluster earrings are more elaborate than simple studs and are designed to make a dazzling statement.
Huggie Earrings: Huggie earrings are miniature hoops. These types of earrings embrace the earlobe rather than hang below. They are circular in shape (similar to classic hoops) and occasionally resemble C-shaped hoops.
Compared to large hoops, huggies are more versatile and easier to wear with a wide range of hairstyles. Since they are on the tiny side, they do not interfere with hairdos and they stay safely in place. They have a discreet charm and they can be minimalistic (metal only) or adorned with a variety of gemstones.
Leverback Earrings: Similar to English lock earrings, the leverback types of earrings refer to the closure type rather than the design. This type of closure comes with a hinged, closed mechanism, which provides high security.
The designs can range significantly, but most are on the small side, featuring the closure and an attached gemstone or a chain with a gemstone (example pictured below). Used widely in both fantasy and fine jewelry pieces due to the increased security of their mechanism.
Chandelier Earrings: Chandelier earrings get their name from the ornate and intricate light fixture. They are one of the large dangling styles, featuring a base on the lobe (a stud, wire hook, or clip-on), with elaborate filigree enhanced by gemstones ranging from diamonds to pearls, colored gems, rhinestones, and more.
Chandelier earrings find their origins in the Middle East, Greece, and India. Some of the oldest pieces were discovered in Greece and they are believed to date from the 5th century B.C. The design of these old chandelier earrings featured gold filigree styles with small shell lockets.
English Lock Earrings: English lock earrings are popular types of earrings that mostly refer to the type of closure used, rather than the actual design. As one of the most popular types of closures, the English lock is very secure, featuring a thin hinged lever that folds out at the back of the ear.
Most designs include smaller styles, huggies, and partial huggies, or dainty dangle designs that feature gemstones like pearls. The lock provides high safety, which is why many fine jewelry pieces feature this type of earring back.
Ear Threader Earrings: Threader earrings feature slim chains that go through the pierced ear and hang on each side of the lobe. Basically, threaders have a long post that serves a double purpose: style and safety. Fixed, non-dangly, and non-chain threader earrings are available as well.
Due to their slim silhouette, threader earrings are dangly and move as you move. Plus, most styles can be worn simultaneously in two-lobe piercings at the same time due to their flexible design. Oftentimes, they feature gemstones, geometric shapes, or metallic bars hanging on the front side.
Bajoran Earrings: Bajoran earrings get their unique name from Star Trek, where they were worn by humanoid species as a representation of their beliefs. Both men and women from the planet Bajor wore a type of earrings in one ear that denoted their devotion to their faith.
Bajoran pieces come with two connection points (similar to elaborate cuffs). One connection point is usually fixed on the lobe with some type of closure, while the other is placed on the upper ear and usually does not require a piercing. Most styles feature layered chains, with or without charms.
Cuff Earrings: Ear cuffs are types of earrings that include two categories: pieces that resemble C hoops (only worn horizontally) and that can be worn without a piercing on various parts of the ear and statement designs that travel on the curve of the ear. Simple pieces are small and do not require pierced ears – and larger cuffs can contain multiple connection points, similar to Bajoran earrings.
Ear cuffs come with a long history. They originate in ancient history when they were worn by aristocrats as a status symbol. Called at some point the ‘Kaffa’ earrings, the first cuffs were crafted from brass and they were designed for the outside edge of the ear.
Statement cuffs were also popular during the ’40s and ’50s and many vintage pieces that are currently on the market are from said eras. In the ’50s, ear cuffs were worn in pairs, while these days, trends mostly dictate wearing a singular standout cuff.
Ear Crawler Earrings: Crawler earrings are often called ‘climber’ earrings. These types of earrings are fixed in the lobe piercing and literally ‘crawl’ or ‘climb’ up the ear.
Crawlers are definitely statement pieces and can be worn in a pair, mismatched with a daintier earring in the other ear, or just as a one-piece. There are various designs available, including pieces featuring leaf motifs, flowers, stars, or gemstones.
Crawler styles look best when paired up with shorter hair or updos since they are bold pieces of jewelry that aren’t meant to hide or be discreet.
Barbell Earrings: Barbell earrings get their name from their similarity with a barbell shape, which includes a metallic bar and spheres on each end. Their closure is found in one of the spheres, which can be detached in order to be inserted in the ear.
They can be worn in a pair or as a standalone piece – and one barbell can be inserted in one piercing or in multiple piercings at the same time (industrial barbells).
Typically edgy and with a punky vibe, barbells can be worn in different ear piercings (and beyond) and they come in different gauges. When worn in the ear, their most common placement is across the cartilage.
Circular Barbell Earrings: A circular barbell earring has the same features as a straight barbell, only in a rounded shape. Also commonly known as a horseshoe barbell due to its typical shape, this type of earrings/piercings features orbs at each end. One orb detaches in order to allow easy insertion, while the other does not. A second type of circular barbell exists, featuring one sphere – and they are often called ‘ball closure rings’.
Circular barbells are not destined exclusively to ear piercings – they are commonly worn as nose rings as well. Other than orbs, circular barbells can feature a variety of designs at each end, including stars, spikes, disks, or other elements.
Plug Earrings: Plug earrings cover two different types: double-sided earrings and plug piercings. In other words, faux plugs or real plugs that involve the process of ear stretching.
Faux plug earrings (pictured) are similar to barbell earrings in the sense that they feature a metallic cylinder that is inserted in the pierced ear and disks at each end, one of which is detachable.
Real plugs that involve expanding the pierced area are also called ‘flesh tunnels’ and ‘earspools’ and they have a cylindrical shape, available in different gauges.
Mismatched Earrings: Mismatched earrings are part of the modern earring types group. Basically, you get to wear two different earring designs – which can either match (theme-wise) or not resemble at all.
Examples of mismatched earrings with similar themes: star & moon earrings or “X” and O”. Alternatively, you can wear a minimal stud in one ear and a statement dangle piece (such as chandelier or shoulder duster types of earrings) in the other, with one thing in common: the setting, be it white or yellow gold.
Shoulder Duster Earrings: Shoulder duster earrings are extra-long, dangly earrings that reach the shoulders. The term was first introduced to describe pendant earrings with a slimmer design during the Art Deco period. Some of the most popular pieces came from brands such as Cartier and Neil Lane, although most of them did not touch the shoulder.
They are obvious statement pieces that require no further adorning (such as with additional necklaces), as they stand out on their own. Designs include chains, filigree, gemstones that are usually placed in slim, linear designs (such as pearls set on chains).
Clip-on Earrings: Clip-on earrings are non-pierced types of earrings that can be worn by children and adults alike. This earring type does not require pierced ears and features a mechanism that applies pressure from each side of the earlobe. When worn properly, they do not cause any pain or damage to the ear, nor do they leave marks.